Ferndale to Shelter Cove Two Day Bicycle Tour

Nothing better than rolling along the Unknown Coast, with great views, no traffic, and a nice tailwind.

On the weekend following July 4th, 2018, Sarah Schroer and I decided to execute a two day bike adventure to the coastal hamlet of Shelter Cove, starting in Ferndale, CA. This remote, lonely coastal town happens to be the Southern end of the Lost Coast hiking route, which travels the rugged Northern California coastline, where no paved roads exist.

Our format would be "credit card touring" which means the bike is loaded as light as possible, and we'd be picking up food along the way, enjoying a restaurant and coffee shop for dinner and breakfast, and also enjoying a warm shower and comfortable bed at a motel after our long first day. In our large seat bags, we would carry shorts, T-shirt, flip flops, warm cycling clothing (i.e. dinner garb), an extra tire, spare tubes, toiletries, USB charging equipment, multi tool, and a few other useful bits.

Leaving Ferndale, Sarah climbs up  Mattole Road, or "The Wildcat," in cool fog and drizzle.

Paul climbs into the soupy fog on Mattole Rd. Photo by Sarah Schroer.

We start off from Ferndale in typical weather, foggy, drippy and cool. Our trip to Shelter Cove will be about 70 miles, and will include about 9,500' of climbing. Sounds reasonable, or so I think. I am to be proven wrong. As we climb up Mattole Road, or "The Wildcat," as locals call it, we experience steep grades and cool damp weather. I wonder if we'll be in this fog all day — but as we crest the climb, and begin the descent of the "Endless Hills," a name that refers to Tour of the Unkown Coast (TUC) riders climbing in the opposite direction, the weather clears. We are then treated to spectacular coastal views, as we descend "The Wall," another TUC reference. Feeling lucky for the great views!

As we near the coast on Mattole Road, we encounter some dirt sections before dropping down "The Wall."

At the top of "The Wall," we are fortunate that it is just clear enough to take in the view. On the left you see Mattole Road heading down the coast toward Petrolia.

Sarah enjoys nice views and a tailwind heading down the Unknown Coast.

We were fortunate to have great conditions riding down the coast. Sunny with nice clouds and a tail wind. Photo by Sarah Schroer.

After a joyous, and typical, tailwind down the coast, we climb a bit, then descend to the town of Petrolia, our first stop. We water up, grab some snacks, and carry on to Honeydew, another 15 miles up the road, and our last chance for supplies before we go "off the grid."

Bulletin Board at Petrolia store notes folks looking for "seasonal" work, a place to stay, and a missing 30-something woman. And of course various hippy healing opportunities.

With the smell of weed wafting about due to locals hanging out, we resupply at the Honeydew Store. Fortunately, folks are generally friendly to cyclists.

At Honeydew, we resupply with liquid and food, leave our backwards trip along the TUC course, to begin the long climb up Wilder Ridge Road. This climb is brutal! It's extremely steep, and part way up, it changes to loose dirt, as it switchbacks up the steep slope, and it's all we can do to keep our loaded gravel bikes moving up the grade!

This is big time pot growing country, as evidenced by sounds, sights and smells along the way. We don't feel like we are in any danger, as recent relaxing of laws seems to have put everyone at ease. But I note that rather than seeing beat up older Ford F-150 trucks driven by ranchers, I see more modern Toyota TRD trucks, BMW and Cadillac SUV's, etc., covered with dust, driven by younger long haired folks. The culture has changed.

The climb up Wilder Ridge Road is brutal, steep, with a long switchback dirt section.

Many matches are burned but we finally crest the climb, at over 2,000' and we now elect to leave the potholed rough pavement of Wilder Ridge in exchange for a dirt adventure on Kings Peak Road. This road starts with a steep, rocky descent all the way down to a river crossing at the bottom. It's fully rideable but a bit sketch on the gravel bikes. At the bottom, the road climbs again, and rolls along for what seems like an eternity. Much of the road is loose, rocky, and bumpy, but there are other sections that are quite smooth, and define what I would call "good gravel riding." These smoother sections were welcomed by this fatigued crew of two.

We leave Wilder Ridge Rd. heading for Kings Peak Rd. Paul looks weary already. Photo by Sarah Schroer.

The descent of King Peak Road is loose and rocky gravel, sometimes tricky. Sarah has no trouble on this steep, slippery, switchback using her newfound dirt skilz.

Much of King Peak road was fairly rough and rocky gravel, pretty, but difficult!

We finally arrive at Shelter Cove Road, and all that is left now is a 2,000' plummet to the tiny town. As we roll into town, we locate our funky home for the night, Mario's Marina Motel, near the boat launch area, with Deli, Bait Shop, and Bar. We inquire where to check in, as there is no office at the motel. We find that we check in at the bar, and come into a scene of locals, loud and friendly, wondering how the hell we were going to get out of this hole on our bicycles, up the extremely steep climb. Exhausted, we just tell them we'll deal with that in the morning.

Sarah reads the plaque at the lighthouse in Shelter Cove, that I affectionately refer to as "Stubby." As it turns out, this vertically challenged lighthouse was originally placed at Cape Mendocino, on a 400' bluff, so it's diminutive stature was not a terrible handicap, nor the butt of any jokes. It's now at Shelter Cove strictly as a tourist attraction... worked for us, as we were drawn to it on the way to dinner

The very first thing you must do at the end of your ride when light touring, is wash your kit and hang to dry with whatever creative method you can come up with, such as hanging on a warm lamp. OK, maybe it's the second thing. First you head to the store and grab a beer and a bag of chips to hold you until dinner.

We inquire about dinner at the bar while we pick up our motel key, and are told that the Venezuelan Restaurant, about a mile across town, is the best choice. We're not thrilled about mounting the bikes again after a huge day, but we do so, and enjoy a nice ride along the coast, toward the restaurant.

Views along the coast on the way to dinner. A few clouds, but no fog on this lovely coastal evening.

Dining al fresco at the Venezuelan Restaurant. Open ceiling, with glass wind breaks kept us nice and cozy. Indoor dining is also available. Good food, but portions were way too small for hungry cyclists!

This is the Venezuelan Restaurant in Shelter Cove. Convenient bike parking in front.

After a nice dinner, it was time to head back to the hotel, and fall asleep to a movie, while our washed kits dry over warm lamps in the room.

Long shadows after a long day, sight seeing, and a nice dinner.

Day 2

Shelter Cove is a boating community, both commercial and pleasure boats are launched by tractors, as the ramp down to the ocean is too steep for normal vehicles. There is no harbor, all boats, including fishing vessels, are pulled out of the water at the end of each day.

Dropping a boat into the water.

Not sure what possessed me to ride down this steep  ramp to view the boat launch, but I did. Yield for Tractor. I did.

Paul demonstrates proper "Yield tfor Tractor" technique. Photo by Sarah Schroer.

In the morning we head to the coffee shop at about 7:30 AM, and have a wonderful breakfast with coffee, tea, tamales, and muffins. Additionally we had them make us bagel sandwiches for the road. Our coffee shop bill was $50, but well worth the expense.

Seal Rock in the morning, on the way to breakfast, with dozens of seals.

Coffee Shop Parking.

(l to r) Two bagel sandwiches to go, two tamales, coffee, muffin #1, muffin #2, two more tamales, tea, coastal view. Off to a good start on day 2!

We have several options for returning to Ferndale. One involves an additional dirt loop to the South. We nix that one, being too exhausted from Day 1! Another involves heading back to Honeydew, then continuing backwards on the TUC course. But that involves some junk miles on Hwy 101, and a flat run into Ferndale. In the end, we can't resist backtracking the way we came, which is by far the nicest, if redundant, route back to Ferndale. We choose to make one variation. Instead of returning on the dirt Kings Peak Road, we'll stay on pavement, and take Ettersburg Road back to Wilder Ridge, then descend into Honeydew, and finish our ride on the TUC course, going the "correct" direction. This involves more distance and climbing, but we can't face the difficult dirt of Kings Peak Rd. again!

Locals told us to climb out of Shelter Cove on Toth Road to stay off the main highway. We did, and were treated to this nice view of Shelter Cove as we climbed the steep 2,000' to get out of this deep hole!

The climb out of Shelter Cove is brutal! We take Toth Road to stay off the main highway, but it isn't any easier. It's no wonder that Shelter Cove isn't a cycling destination. The road in and out is just too difficult for most cyclists.

Headed to Ettersburg on our way back to Honeydew.

We climb and roll on Ettersburg Road, before coming to Wilder Ridge Road again, where we'd turned off the day before, onto Kings Peak Road. Descending into Honeydew, among all the wheel eating potholes, I take an unfortunate spill, washing out the front wheel while avoiding a badly potholed mixed gravel and paved section. I hit the deck hard, but fortunately, the speed is modest, and I am fortunate to come away only with some serious elbow rash, a sprained thumb, and very minor scrapes on shoulder, hip, and knee. Bike is OK, and I can ride, so we head into Honeydew, pick up supplies, (including bandaids), and we carry on to Petrolia.

After Petrolia, we head toward the coast and take in this view before heading back up the road toward Capetown.

After Petrolia, we head up the coast along the TUC course, but this time into the wind. I've seen worse along this stretch, so we survived, even with extreme fatique. "The Wall" was tough, but we got over it, and then, the "Endless Hills" are survivable, as we are now on the home stretch.

Sarah tackles "The Wall" as we leave the coast.

Just as we left Ferndale in the fog, we return to Ferndale in fog. At the top of the climb before descending The Wildcat, we put on our windbreakers and knee warmers for the descent.

Cold beers and a hearty dinner were enjoyed in Ferndale, as we remember this great journey. Day 2 was about 80 miles, and 10,500', but again, those numbers don't speak properly to the difficulty of this route. This is an extremely difficult ride, not sure we'd do it again, but we won't talk you out of it, if you want to have a go!

It was truly a great adventure, but not one for the weak of heart!

La SonoMendo Two Day Mixty Bike Tour

A Credit Card Tour usually involves modest hotels and restaurants. Pure luxury... by cyclist standards.

Yes, the name of this bike tour is a mouthful, but the tour is worthy of a unique name. The tour idea came about after Sarah Schroer did Max Polleto's SFR Orr Springs 600K Adventure Brevet in June of 2014. That ride is a beast, a hilly, dirty, 600K. This ride intends to capture some of the great riding offered on the 600K, but in a more civilized approach. This ride is a two day adventure, a 100 mile ride from Healdburg to Ukiah, followed by a 90 mile ride from Ukiah to Healdsburg on day 2. In between is a restful night at a comfortable Hotel in Ukiah. This ride is nothing like the 600K... but offers significant challenges nonetheless. It travels through three counties, Sonoma, Mendocino, and Lake, hence the name. Check out Sarah's Ukiah Two Day Tour Route.

Sarah tows me along the first easy miles on Dry Creek Rd North of Healdsburg

Sarah and I start in Healdsburg at 9 AM (remember, this is a civilized tour)! We head up Dry Creek Road, hoping for little or no boat traffic. Although it is Labor Day Weekend, and it's hot, we are starting our tour on Sunday. We've got a small amount of overnight gear in our large seat packs. Hopefully all the partying Lake goers are at their destinations already. A truck with boat trailer passes us early, but it's the only one we see. Up and over Dutcher Creek, we roll through Cloverdale, and tackle the stout climb up Hwy 128 to Yorkville. We stop there, at the Deli and Wine Tasting establishment. This place has been remodeled and reopened, and we'd like to keep them in business, so we stop for a soda and muffin.

Soda and muffin at Yorkville. Seat bags packed.

On to Booneville. We would normally stop there, but since we stopped in Yorkville, we elect to stop in the smaller town of Philo, six miles up the road, to check it out. There we find a store with a full butcher meat counter, deli, and groceries, as well as a nice table out front. They prepare a wonderful fresh sandwich for us, but unfortunately ours was given to some other tourists who head quickly down the road. They got our Turkey sandwich, we got their Roast Beef. We were fine with that, I hope they were OK with our turkey!

Lunch in Philo, CA. If you're starting to think this tour is all about food stops, you are partially right.

The grocery clerk asks us which way we were heading on Hwy 128. We say West. He says, "That road wasn't built for bicyclists." Sarah and I are not sure if he's a bike hater, or just a practical man trying to give us a warning about the shoulderless road. We're only going ten miles before turning off on Flynn Creek, so hopefully it won't be too bad. Although there is no shoulder, and the road is busy, we do just fine. But I'm glad when we turn onto Flynn Creek!

No shoulder on Hwy 128 between Philo and Flynn Creek Rd, but we survive.

Flynn Creek is nice with one good climb, decent pavement, and no traffic. Our plan is to refuel in Comptche at the end of Flynn Creek Road. We get there, and the store is closed. Oops. Sarah consults with a local at the Post Office, who tells us we can get water at the Church down the way. We head down there, and are treated to some good 'ol rural hospitality.

Sarah climbs on the quiet Flynn Creek Road, a relief after Hwy 128.

Our hearts sink when we discover the Comptche Store is closed. Church to the rescue.

As we roll up to the church, we are welcomed, one woman calling out to Sarah without prompting, "Yes, bathrooms are available!" We walk inside and everyone is very nice, tending to our needs, and showing us around. As we are leaving, a 10 year old boy, Edgar, asks Sarah, "Do you want to see my airplane?" Of course she says yes, and Edgar demonstrates the glider, flinging it into the air, it does a loop, but comes up short, nosing straight into the ground. No foul, it was built to take the abuse. Later, Edgar's father shows up, and Edgar properly introduces Sarah and me. We chat, then the Pastor shows up. Edgar again properly introduces Sarah and me. We chat more, and after explaining why we didn't take the most direct route from Healdsburg to Ukiah, we're on our way, talking about how impressed we were with Edgar's manners and maturity.

Edgar explains to Sarah the finer points of glider flying.

Next we've got two big climbs on Comptche-Ukiah Rd, and Orr Springs Road. While the day has gone great so far, I'm fighting a severe case of hot foot, and the heat and miles are causing extreme fatigue. The scenery is gorgeous, but the pavement is deteriorating fast, as is my condition. I struggle up both climbs, but can't help noticing how beautiful the riding is in this area.

Rolling along Comptche-Ukiah Road. Photo: Sarah Schroer.

Rolling along Comptche-Ukiah Rd. before the big climb... and the bad pavement.

The Orr Springs climb was difficult in the heat, but gorgeous. Photo: Sarah Schroer

Sarah tops out on Orr Springs Rd. A nice, long, descent to Ukiah awaits.

At the top of the final climb, we pull over, I take of my shoes, massage my feet, and eat my last bit of rationed food. Just a long descent into Ukiah, and we're good. Sarah tows me in.

Once in town, we elect to hit Safeway before the Hotel. Grabbing some snacks and cool drinks, including beer, will allow us to relax for a bit, and take off the urgency of getting to dinner. Works like a charm. After some refreshing drinks, some Sushi, and a good shower, including washing our kits so they'll dry before morning, we head off on foot to a well reviewed Taqueria.

A stop at Safeway as we arrive into town insures a relaxing primp and prep for dinner at the Tacqueria.

Proper Pre-dinner refreshments.

On the way to dinner we pass a lot full of old cars. The photographic opportunities are endless, and I take a few, here is one representative example.

Advanced Credit Card Touring technique... pre drying the cycling clothes by rolling and pressing with the bath towel. Photo: Sarah Schoroer

After a nice stroll back to the hotel, it's time for some rest.

Next morning I stumble into the Hotel office to grab some coffee and tea and survey the breakfast offerings. I spy the self serve waffle maker. The breakfast decision is made. After coffee and tea in the room, Sarah and I head for a nice breakfast, with waffles, syrup, yoghurt, and egg. Plenty of food for two hungry cyclists.

The Super 8 in Ukiah is highly recommended. Clean, roomy, nice appointments, friendly staff, comfortable bed, great breakfast (by hotel standards), and quiet. We'll be back.

Today is more challenging regarding food and water. We'll have no supplies for 50 miles, and we've got 100 degree heat, and two big climbs to deal with, one of them dirt. We resupply at a Quick Stop, and get on the road. After a fast roll to Hopland on River Rd, we tackle the wonderful Old Toll Road. There is nobody on this road. It starts paved, but turns to dirt after a couple of miles. The dirt isn't bad, gentle grades, not much washboard, and not too rocky. It's a beautiful road, but both Sarah and I struggle to represent that with photographs.

Pavement ends, climbing begins, in magical light.

Your Caption Here. May I suggest WTF?

Descending Old Toll. Photo: Sarah Schroer.

It's getting very warm now, and we begin to think about water. We've got a tough, hot climb up Bottle Rock Road to Cobb Mountain. I've got maybe a half bottle left. As we grind up the climb, the heat is unbearable. I finish my last water about a third of the way up the climb. There is no point in rationing, I'm already dehydrated. Again, I struggle up the climb, and Sarah and I top out together, rolling into Cobb Mountain, weak, hungry, and dehydrated. I drink, seriously, 4 - 20 oz. sodas, after confirming with the staff that refills are allowed. We have sandwiches, and chips. We can barely walk with all the food and liquid in our bellies, but we now have a 4 mile descent, followed by an easy, flat, 4 mile roll into Middletown, before tackling Western Mine Road, our next dirt project.

Out of water, near 100 degree heat, Sarah sets what feels like a brutal pace up Bottle Rock Rd. I barely hang on. We're probably going really slow, but it feels like max effort.

Much food and drink at Cobb Mt.

Sarah suggests we stop for a popsicle and more water, even though we left Cobb Mountain less than 30 minutes prior. I agree. We stop, get our supplies, and sit down on the bench in front of a bar. The grumpy owner comes out, smoking a cigarette, and makes a few snide remarks. We're not sure he's serious, so we laugh it off and stay put.

Our bikes at the bar in Middletown. Enjoying popsicles with the sweet smell of cigarette smoke.

Now time for Western Mine. It's nearly 100 degrees, and the dirt of Western Mine is loose, dry, washboard, and very steep. It's super painful climbing this thing, and hard to keep the rear wheel from slipping, but both Sarah and I pedal up this beast of a climb, and make the summit. We are quickly cooled by the fast, bumpy descent (paved now) of Ida Clayton Rd., and roll the flat back to Jimtown. One more water top off, mostly because the water still in our bottles is so hot it's impossible to drink!

On the Western Mine Climb, Sarah somehow manages to stop to take this selfie, honoring Paul Stimson, and the "Never Give Up Jersey" she is wearing.

Sarah tops out on the impossibly difficult dirt on Western Mine. Fine on a cool winter day, but with dry, loose, steep, dirt, in 100 degree heat, with slippery washboard, this climb is a beast!

Last descent down from Western Mine on bumpy Ida Clayton, before rolling into Jimtown for some cool water.

Just a few more miles and we are back in Healdsburg, ready for more water, cold beer, and a delicious burger. A nice end to a wonderful two day tour! I would highly recommend this route to any Adventure Cyclist.

A last stop in Jimtown before finishing in Healdsburg

A large calorie meal with beer was indicated at the finish.

Strava File Day 1:

<

Strava File Day 2: