A visit to Bodie, following White Mountain Double

Old home in Bodie, CA. This particular building perched on the hill above town, caught my eye.

While the primary objective on the weekend of Sept. 12-13, 2015, was the White Mountain Double Century, perhaps the highlight of the weekend, as it turned out, was an impromptu visit to Bodie, CA, the famous Ghost Town in the Eastern Sierra, between Lee Vining and Bridgeport, CA.

After the Gold Rush (yay Neil Young!) in 1849, prospectors began to drift to the Eastern Sierra in search of new strikes.  W.S. Bodey, discovered Gold here in 1859. He died a few months later in a blizzard, but was not forgotten, save for the spelling of his name. The town that formed in his honor came to be known as "Bodie."

Mining was slow until about 1875, when a mine collapse revealed a rich body of gold ore. The town's boom years were from about 1877-1881, when as many as 8,000 inhabited this remote place at over 8,000' elevation. At this time there were 30 mines, 9 stamp mills, 60 Saloons, Opium Dens, Cat Houses, gun fights, the whole bit.

Mining dwindled into the 1900's, but the town limped along, and some mining continued, until 1942. Part of the reason the town is preserved, is that James S. Cain, Bodie's last major land owner, hired caretakers to watch over the town to prevent looting. Because of his efforts, we have this amazing State Park today. California State Parks purchased the property in 1962, and efforts continue to preserve its history. Although only about 5% of the buildings remain, one can spend many hours looking at the structures, peering in windows, and imagining what life would have been like in Bodie's heydey.

Below is a photo essay, from our visit. Sarah Schroer and I roamed around for a couple of hours. The weather was a bit windy and overcast, and we had a few sprinkles. This was perfect for taking photographs, and we took many. Click on any photo to enlarge.

The visitor to Bodie is first treated to some old mining equipment. The Boiler.

The boiler ran the large winches that lowered miners and raised extract from the mines.

Steam Winch

Steam Winch

Large building is Miner's Union Hall

Bucket still hangs above a well.

This lovely Surrey survived inside the "Surrey Shed."

Burely-Ass Cart. No doubt used to haul mine extracts. F-350, go home!

These Heavy Duty carts were used to haul supplies from Carson City, several thousand feet below. One can only imagine the difficulty of this journey on dodgey roads with huge loads and pack stock.

Two prominent buildings, the Post Office (left) and I.O.O.F. Hall.That would be Independent Order of Odd Fellows. In later years the lower floor was an athletic club!

The tiny Swasey Hotel. I can only imagine four cramped rooms on the upper floor with kitchen and reception below.

The Jail House. Photo by Sarah Schroer

An overview of the last mine remaining.

Many of the homes are sided and roofed with small pieces of tin. These are recycled gas cans. Proof positive that folks will recycle and reuse if there is a need. The patina of the weathered wood, and  rust of this metal is quite beautiful to the eye.

Someone clearly had a sense of humor reconstructing this early automobile, substituting a 55 gal. drum for the engine.

Much time is spent peering through windows in Bodie, seeing artifacts left behind when the town was abandoned.

Old Wood

One comes to Bodie with a "Gold Rush" town mind set. However, since the town carried on until 1942, there some "modern" appointments.

Many automobiles did not make it out of Bodie.

Bodie Fire Department.

Gas Station.

Gas Pumps

Jail and Stable. Looks like one of the locals is hanging out. I didn't dare go closer.

Another fine home in Bodie.

The gas can next to this automobile will be of no help in getting it running.

Modest home in Bodie

The Saw Mill is struggling to survive.

On the side of the Saw Mill. That is a large blade.

I was struck by the somewhat ornate lamp fixture on the door step. This later cabin had electricity.

More tin work with recycled gas cans.

Old Automobile and cabin. This car still had the engine and transmission. Others were gone. This is one of my favorite photographs of the visit.

Tom Miller Stable and Ice House.

These photos represent only a fraction of what there is to see in Bodie. Do have a visit when you can!

La SonoMendo Two Day Mixty Bike Tour

A Credit Card Tour usually involves modest hotels and restaurants. Pure luxury... by cyclist standards.

Yes, the name of this bike tour is a mouthful, but the tour is worthy of a unique name. The tour idea came about after Sarah Schroer did Max Polleto's SFR Orr Springs 600K Adventure Brevet in June of 2014. That ride is a beast, a hilly, dirty, 600K. This ride intends to capture some of the great riding offered on the 600K, but in a more civilized approach. This ride is a two day adventure, a 100 mile ride from Healdburg to Ukiah, followed by a 90 mile ride from Ukiah to Healdsburg on day 2. In between is a restful night at a comfortable Hotel in Ukiah. This ride is nothing like the 600K... but offers significant challenges nonetheless. It travels through three counties, Sonoma, Mendocino, and Lake, hence the name. Check out Sarah's Ukiah Two Day Tour Route.

Sarah tows me along the first easy miles on Dry Creek Rd North of Healdsburg

Sarah and I start in Healdsburg at 9 AM (remember, this is a civilized tour)! We head up Dry Creek Road, hoping for little or no boat traffic. Although it is Labor Day Weekend, and it's hot, we are starting our tour on Sunday. We've got a small amount of overnight gear in our large seat packs. Hopefully all the partying Lake goers are at their destinations already. A truck with boat trailer passes us early, but it's the only one we see. Up and over Dutcher Creek, we roll through Cloverdale, and tackle the stout climb up Hwy 128 to Yorkville. We stop there, at the Deli and Wine Tasting establishment. This place has been remodeled and reopened, and we'd like to keep them in business, so we stop for a soda and muffin.

Soda and muffin at Yorkville. Seat bags packed.

On to Booneville. We would normally stop there, but since we stopped in Yorkville, we elect to stop in the smaller town of Philo, six miles up the road, to check it out. There we find a store with a full butcher meat counter, deli, and groceries, as well as a nice table out front. They prepare a wonderful fresh sandwich for us, but unfortunately ours was given to some other tourists who head quickly down the road. They got our Turkey sandwich, we got their Roast Beef. We were fine with that, I hope they were OK with our turkey!

Lunch in Philo, CA. If you're starting to think this tour is all about food stops, you are partially right.

The grocery clerk asks us which way we were heading on Hwy 128. We say West. He says, "That road wasn't built for bicyclists." Sarah and I are not sure if he's a bike hater, or just a practical man trying to give us a warning about the shoulderless road. We're only going ten miles before turning off on Flynn Creek, so hopefully it won't be too bad. Although there is no shoulder, and the road is busy, we do just fine. But I'm glad when we turn onto Flynn Creek!

No shoulder on Hwy 128 between Philo and Flynn Creek Rd, but we survive.

Flynn Creek is nice with one good climb, decent pavement, and no traffic. Our plan is to refuel in Comptche at the end of Flynn Creek Road. We get there, and the store is closed. Oops. Sarah consults with a local at the Post Office, who tells us we can get water at the Church down the way. We head down there, and are treated to some good 'ol rural hospitality.

Sarah climbs on the quiet Flynn Creek Road, a relief after Hwy 128.

Our hearts sink when we discover the Comptche Store is closed. Church to the rescue.

As we roll up to the church, we are welcomed, one woman calling out to Sarah without prompting, "Yes, bathrooms are available!" We walk inside and everyone is very nice, tending to our needs, and showing us around. As we are leaving, a 10 year old boy, Edgar, asks Sarah, "Do you want to see my airplane?" Of course she says yes, and Edgar demonstrates the glider, flinging it into the air, it does a loop, but comes up short, nosing straight into the ground. No foul, it was built to take the abuse. Later, Edgar's father shows up, and Edgar properly introduces Sarah and me. We chat, then the Pastor shows up. Edgar again properly introduces Sarah and me. We chat more, and after explaining why we didn't take the most direct route from Healdsburg to Ukiah, we're on our way, talking about how impressed we were with Edgar's manners and maturity.

Edgar explains to Sarah the finer points of glider flying.

Next we've got two big climbs on Comptche-Ukiah Rd, and Orr Springs Road. While the day has gone great so far, I'm fighting a severe case of hot foot, and the heat and miles are causing extreme fatigue. The scenery is gorgeous, but the pavement is deteriorating fast, as is my condition. I struggle up both climbs, but can't help noticing how beautiful the riding is in this area.

Rolling along Comptche-Ukiah Road. Photo: Sarah Schroer.

Rolling along Comptche-Ukiah Rd. before the big climb... and the bad pavement.

The Orr Springs climb was difficult in the heat, but gorgeous. Photo: Sarah Schroer

Sarah tops out on Orr Springs Rd. A nice, long, descent to Ukiah awaits.

At the top of the final climb, we pull over, I take of my shoes, massage my feet, and eat my last bit of rationed food. Just a long descent into Ukiah, and we're good. Sarah tows me in.

Once in town, we elect to hit Safeway before the Hotel. Grabbing some snacks and cool drinks, including beer, will allow us to relax for a bit, and take off the urgency of getting to dinner. Works like a charm. After some refreshing drinks, some Sushi, and a good shower, including washing our kits so they'll dry before morning, we head off on foot to a well reviewed Taqueria.

A stop at Safeway as we arrive into town insures a relaxing primp and prep for dinner at the Tacqueria.

Proper Pre-dinner refreshments.

On the way to dinner we pass a lot full of old cars. The photographic opportunities are endless, and I take a few, here is one representative example.

Advanced Credit Card Touring technique... pre drying the cycling clothes by rolling and pressing with the bath towel. Photo: Sarah Schoroer

After a nice stroll back to the hotel, it's time for some rest.

Next morning I stumble into the Hotel office to grab some coffee and tea and survey the breakfast offerings. I spy the self serve waffle maker. The breakfast decision is made. After coffee and tea in the room, Sarah and I head for a nice breakfast, with waffles, syrup, yoghurt, and egg. Plenty of food for two hungry cyclists.

The Super 8 in Ukiah is highly recommended. Clean, roomy, nice appointments, friendly staff, comfortable bed, great breakfast (by hotel standards), and quiet. We'll be back.

Today is more challenging regarding food and water. We'll have no supplies for 50 miles, and we've got 100 degree heat, and two big climbs to deal with, one of them dirt. We resupply at a Quick Stop, and get on the road. After a fast roll to Hopland on River Rd, we tackle the wonderful Old Toll Road. There is nobody on this road. It starts paved, but turns to dirt after a couple of miles. The dirt isn't bad, gentle grades, not much washboard, and not too rocky. It's a beautiful road, but both Sarah and I struggle to represent that with photographs.

Pavement ends, climbing begins, in magical light.

Your Caption Here. May I suggest WTF?

Descending Old Toll. Photo: Sarah Schroer.

It's getting very warm now, and we begin to think about water. We've got a tough, hot climb up Bottle Rock Road to Cobb Mountain. I've got maybe a half bottle left. As we grind up the climb, the heat is unbearable. I finish my last water about a third of the way up the climb. There is no point in rationing, I'm already dehydrated. Again, I struggle up the climb, and Sarah and I top out together, rolling into Cobb Mountain, weak, hungry, and dehydrated. I drink, seriously, 4 - 20 oz. sodas, after confirming with the staff that refills are allowed. We have sandwiches, and chips. We can barely walk with all the food and liquid in our bellies, but we now have a 4 mile descent, followed by an easy, flat, 4 mile roll into Middletown, before tackling Western Mine Road, our next dirt project.

Out of water, near 100 degree heat, Sarah sets what feels like a brutal pace up Bottle Rock Rd. I barely hang on. We're probably going really slow, but it feels like max effort.

Much food and drink at Cobb Mt.

Sarah suggests we stop for a popsicle and more water, even though we left Cobb Mountain less than 30 minutes prior. I agree. We stop, get our supplies, and sit down on the bench in front of a bar. The grumpy owner comes out, smoking a cigarette, and makes a few snide remarks. We're not sure he's serious, so we laugh it off and stay put.

Our bikes at the bar in Middletown. Enjoying popsicles with the sweet smell of cigarette smoke.

Now time for Western Mine. It's nearly 100 degrees, and the dirt of Western Mine is loose, dry, washboard, and very steep. It's super painful climbing this thing, and hard to keep the rear wheel from slipping, but both Sarah and I pedal up this beast of a climb, and make the summit. We are quickly cooled by the fast, bumpy descent (paved now) of Ida Clayton Rd., and roll the flat back to Jimtown. One more water top off, mostly because the water still in our bottles is so hot it's impossible to drink!

On the Western Mine Climb, Sarah somehow manages to stop to take this selfie, honoring Paul Stimson, and the "Never Give Up Jersey" she is wearing.

Sarah tops out on the impossibly difficult dirt on Western Mine. Fine on a cool winter day, but with dry, loose, steep, dirt, in 100 degree heat, with slippery washboard, this climb is a beast!

Last descent down from Western Mine on bumpy Ida Clayton, before rolling into Jimtown for some cool water.

Just a few more miles and we are back in Healdsburg, ready for more water, cold beer, and a delicious burger. A nice end to a wonderful two day tour! I would highly recommend this route to any Adventure Cyclist.

A last stop in Jimtown before finishing in Healdsburg

A large calorie meal with beer was indicated at the finish.

Strava File Day 1:

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Strava File Day 2:

Fearsome Five 2015 - The Mug is Earned!

Fearsome Five Organizer MarC Moons, The Lion of Sonoma County. Don't try to outrun him. The author taking a drink, facing downhill, ready for the descent of Ida Clayton. Photo: Sarah Schroer

“You’ll never catch us. Don’t even bother looking ahead for us. All you will see is empty road.” This is me trash talking MarC Moons, The Lion of Sonoma County, at the Wohler Bridge rest stop, at Wine Country Century.

MarC and I were both working as volunteers for Santa Rosa Cycling Club’s annual Wine Country Century the day before Fearsome Five, with MarC manning the rest stop, while I was driving SAG. MarC’s fellow helpers at the rest stop, knowing his credentials, looked at me in disbelief! Who is this trash talker? Does he know who he is talking to? I do.

MarC Moons' Fearsome Five is a 130 mile jaunt on the rough, steep back roads of Sonoma County, that boasts over 15,000’ of climbing. I’ll be riding with a group leaving one hour ahead of MarC, and the plan is to try to hold him off.

Fearsome Five follows, somewhat, the format of The Death Ride, with 5 big climbs, with some out and backs — and some up, over, and backs. But the similarity ends there — Fearsome Five has much steeper climbs, and much rougher roads, potholes, dirt/gravel, and, methinks, presents a greater challenge. One of the toughest 200K rides imaginable.

I’ve “attempted” FF at lease twice before. In both cases, after completing the Wine Country 200K ride at a brisk pace on the tandem on the previous day. I never intended to finish in those years, just wanted to come out and do 3-4 climbs, and ride socially with friends. But, this year I volunteered for WCC, and hence had rested legs, so it was time to try to earn the coveted Fearsome Five Beer Mug, an award reserved only for the select few who complete the entire ride.

The next day…

My plan is to start at 7:00 AM, and not a minute after, an hour before MarC and the fast boyz, including Miguel Sanchez and Carl Sanders, and try to hold them off as long as possible. Trash talking notwithstanding, I know MarC will catch us, it’s just a matter of when. It’ll be on the 4^th or 5^th climb of the day, almost certainly, but we’ll hold him off as long as we can. My riding partners for the day will be Sarah Schroer and Scott Duncan.

We roll at 7:02, not a minute after 7:00, but two minutes after! There are many in the 7:00 group, but they are not quite ready to go, and I don’t wait. I even leave before Sarah and Scott, soft pedaling ahead just to get them out of the parking lot and rolling!

We set a nice pace up the Geysers, staying together and making good ground. It’s foggy and cool, but as we rise above the fog, we are treated to spectacular views looking West, fingers of fog in the valleys while sunlight begins to dance on the hills poking through the fog. A perfect day on the bike… so far.

We clear the first major summit after about an hour, then descend to Little Sulfur Creek to begin the second Geysers climb. It's after 8:00 AM now, and Sarah announces, "The hounds have been unleashed!" At this point we are nothing more than rabbits. Knowing our fate, we just roll along and enjoy the ride, before getting swallowed by the hounds, or The Lion as it were.

We figure we are now in sun for good, but when we begin the descent of Geysers toward Pine Mt., we dip back into the fog, and the temperature drops. Sarah has just removed her windbreaker, but then stops to put it back on. I take the opportunity to stop for a photo, and then the three of us forge ahead, picking our way down the bumpy, potholed road, running along the spectacular Geysers Canyon. We’ll take in more views on the way back, as we climb this section, but for now, all senses are occupied keeping the tires running on a line that won’t result in pinch flats, torn sidewalls or worse!

Sarah descends The Geysers, windbreaker back on!

We arrive at the base of Pine Mt., and Rita Mathys is there with water and treats. We roll right by, promising to stop on the return. The out and back climb  of Pine Mtn. goes well, I roll just a bit ahead of Scott and Sarah, and I marvel at the steepness of this road, particularly in the first two miles of the four mile effort. We arrive at the top, and take a short break to eat and drink. We haven’t thought much about MarC and the boyz at this point, but we’ll know soon enough how far back they are, as we return down the climb. We’ll need to be at the bottom with Rita, or better yet, already on our way back up Geysers Canyon, before we see the likes of these fast Hooligans.

We see MarC when we are half way down Pine Mt. I am in disbelief. MarC is out of the saddle, turning a high cadence, literally flying up the hill. He has handily dropped both Carl and Miguel. The pace is unbelievable! MarC is extremely fit this year, riding super strong, the best I have seen him.

Knowing we’re doomed, we have a nice long stop with Rita, before setting a lovely tempo pace up the Geysers. We each do one very long pull, first Sarah, then me, and then Scott bringing us to the base of the steep climb up to the TT rest stop. This long slog goes quickly with the nice pace, cool temps, and great scenery.

I catch Hunt Moore as I crest the first steep part of Geysers return, and we ride together and chat until the TT rest stop, where I regroup with Scott and Sarah and we proceed. Up and over the next hump of the Geysers we go, still taking in great views, fog in the distance, with cool sunny conditions, green grasses, and quiet, spectacular roads.

A fast descent followed by an easy roll on the flats brings us back to the school on Hwy 128 where we have supplies in the car. We snap a photo and upload to Facebook, for any who might be following The Plight of the Rabbits, to stay ahead of The Lion. Specifically, Paul Stimson, as we know Paul is thinking of this group today.  He would love to be with us, and we reckon he’s watching and cheering, doing what he can. Sarah taps out a message on her Smart Phone, which takes some time. We then receive several replies. They all say the same thing, which is basically, “Quit standing around taking photos, writing Facebook posts, and get back on your bikes and pedal!!!”

Get on those bikes and pedal! You're going to get caught! Photo: Rita Mathys

After about 20 minutes of lollygagging, we head out toward Ida Clayton. We’re all a bit tired now, and I pull our group the entire way at a modest pace, maybe 18 mph. Once on the climb, Scott seems to have the best legs, and drifts off the front. I ride with Sarah, and as we approach the 4 mile point, I’ve rolled ahead a few meters. I hear Sarah say something, and I turn around. There he is! MarC has caught us already, making up a full hour in six and a half hours riding time. Oh dear!

MarC eases off the pace and the three of us ride together to the end of the pavement. On the way down a slow truck is in the way up ahead of us. Scott, a few minutes ahead of us, overheats his rims braking for the truck and flats. I eject a bottle and go back for it, while MarC and Sarah catch up with the truck and Scott fixing his flat. Scott insists they keep going, and gives me the same suggestion as I pass. I catch MarC and Sarah, and MarC is doing what I usually do in this situation — hang around on the left corner of the truck and hope the driver sees me in the mirror and gives some room to pass. Well, he doesn’t. But an opportunity to pass presents itself, and all three of us quickly slip by and continue down the hill.

At the bottom, Jady Palko is waiting. He’s doing his own thing, just trying to get 100 miles in today. He appears to be out of food, and queries MarC about the subject. MarC has food in his truck, but decides Jady will have to earn it. We start rolling North on Hwy 128 at Ida Clayton, back the eight miles of flat/rolling terrain to the school. MarC doesn’t say a word. He looks Jady in the eye, points at his front wheel, gesturing Jady to get out front and push the wind. You’ve got to earn your lunch, Jady!

Jady complies, and all I can think is, Uh-Oh. I’m gong to be dropped. First little rise, and I’m gone. The first 20 seconds are brutal, but Sarah and I are still hanging on. It then gets a bit easier. Jady is pretty smooth at the front, if a bit fast! Any little rise and I am doing 370W. I can’t keep this up with tired legs, but the rollers are modest and short. At the last roller before the school, Jady digs a bit deeper. My meter barks out 622W, which was the max for the day. Bottom line, Jady got us back to the school, eight miles, in 19 minutes with an average speed of 24.6 mph!

We stop again at the School for refreshments. Next is the last climb, Pine Flat. Probably the hardest climb of the day, with very tired legs. This is the climb that puts the Fearsome in the Five.

We roll out from the school, MarC and Jady still with Sarah and me, Scott still playing catch up, with Miguel, Carl, and others a bit back. Tony Lee, having left at 6:30 AM, is still ahead. Jady joins us for the first five miles of Pine Flat. It’s a nice, social pace. But MarC is glancing down the hill, and after a long period of “slower” riding with Sarah and me, we see Miguel down the hill and gaining.

Bang, Bang, you shot me down, Bang, Bang, I hit the ground... The hunt is over. Jady, Sarah, MarC, heading for the final climb up Pine Flat. 

Time to go. MarC floats away, effortlessly up the climb, heading for the summit to meet Rita, while Sarah and I forge slowly on, knowing the doom ahead, the long 20%+ section toward the top.

Pine Flat. Gorgeous. Calm before the storm. MarC is about to bolt ahead. Jady is about to turn back. Sarah and I are about to go into full suffer mode.

Miguel reels us in and is looking strong. Sarah and I trudge up the steep section, going so slowly we almost topple, but we know we’ll make it. At the top we are greeted by cheers from Rita, MarC, Miguel, and Tony Lee. Tony had started at 6:30 and we never caught him until the end. We arrive at the summit at 4:20 P.M. leaving time for a nice, long, celebration at the top, cheering for other riders as they arrive. This is my first complete Fearsome Five, and I’ve been told my accomplishment will be MarC’d with earning the coveted Fearsome Five Beer Mug.

The Early Crew at the top (l to r) Scott Duncan, Paul McKenzie, MarC Moons, Sarah Schroer, Miguel Sanchez, Tony Lee. Photo: Rita Mathys

Meanwhile, down the hill, many riders work their way up. Hunt Moore, at 64 years, amazing! We had two young men from Napa, I think 17 and 19 years old, who make it, even doing some “extra credit” on Pine Mt. Troy and Karen on their TANDEM! They’ve done it many times now. Luke, Brad, Don, etc.

As is the custom, MarC waits for riders at the top and makes sure all riders return safely to the finish. This is truly an epic event, and has gained much respect and popularity, thanks to the efforts of the Lion of Sonoma County, MarC Moons. Thank you, MarC… and Rita too!

Incredible honor to finally earn this Mug. Beer will be consumed to commemorate this special day! Photo: Sarah Schroer