Wednesday, October 10, 2012

Furnace Creek 508 Race Report 2012 Team Rock Ewe


Team Rock Ewe at Registration. (l to r) Jennie Phillips, Jeanine Spence, Cat Berge, Janet Martinez. (horizontal) Paul McKenzie.

I just returned from the 2012 Furnace Creek 508 bicycle race, where I served as "Crew Chief" for team Rock Ewe, a 4 Woman Relay Team. The FC 508 is a 508 mile race, traveling through Death Valley in Southern California. The women, racing in the 4x, 40+ age category, set a new course record, shattering the previous record by nearly 4 hours, and also setting a mark that bettered all women's age groups, with a time of 28 hours and 23 minutes. This mark also beats the overall all-time course record in the 4x mixed team division. In this particular year, 2012, they were, in fact, the first 4x team to the finish line, beating all of the men's and mixed 4x teams! They were the fastest 4x relay team at the 2012 Furnace Creek 508.

In early July of this year, I get a note from my friend Jennie Phillips. The subject of the email is, "You have won an all-expenses-paid trip to..." I'm, like, OK, what is this?" She goes on with the following:

How's that for an attention getter, Paul?!?!  I think you can probably guess how you can redeem this wonderful, resort-oriented trip.
Well, it's pretty easy actually.  Any chance you'd like to be our Crew Chief for the FC508 this year?????
You'd be spending 4 exciting days as part of the Rock Ewe Team, a team of 4 women vying to take back the 40+ 4x women's record!  (Team Pine Marten stole our previous record last year...and their time to beat is 32:05:22)
Team members are Jeanine Spence, Cat Berge, Jennie Phillips (yours truly) and "tbd."  Don't you want to have your name in the Twentynine Palm neon lights with these fast chicks????

This note is a real curve ball. On the one hand, my life is so busy with starting a new business, having little spare time, and barely surviving financially, it isn't a good time to commit to volunteering. On the other hand, the adventure side of me says that, although this will be hard, it will also be rewarding, these women are totally legit, and it's a way for me to give back to the cycling world and my good friends...and perhaps have some fun while I am at it.

I'm going to be honest here. I'd heard through the grapevine, that at least two of my other friends had been asked before me. I don't like being second fiddle. I like even less being third fiddle. And I'd been in this situation before. One of the racers, my tandem racing partner, Cat Berge, asked me to do a 2x mixed relay with her at FC 508 2006. The problem? I'd slacked off on my late season riding and it wasn't much more than 3 weeks before the event when she asked me. Turns out she needed a fill-in for her planned racing partner, a younger, faster, better looking fellow than me, but a far less reliable one as it turned out. He'd flaked on her, and she needed a substitute. I was like, "Damn Cat, wish you'd chosen me in the first place, and I could have trained for this darned thing." I showed up, and we did OK, set an age group record in 28 hours-something, but wished I could have planned for the event vs. doing it off the couch. We'd still have the record today, I think, if I had time to train for the event. (Cat came back a year later with another fellow and clipped our record).

But... This is different. I don't need to train. I could Crew Chief right off the couch. With 3-508's under my belt as a rider (2 solo and 1-2x with Cat), and one time crewing, I certainly have the credentials. And, I've had so many epic cycling experiences with Cat doing tandem riding, I find myself in a "can't say no" situation.

On July 3, I write this note to Jennie, regarding my "terms" for "Crew Chiefing," only half joking:

I would also want you to know that I will turn into a Pumpkin after 28 hours so fully expect the team to be well under that time and shatter the record by at least 4 hours.

And at the risk of being too personal here, I write back to Jennie on July 10th:

Cat is the reason that it is almost impossible for me to say no to this request. In me, she has a lifetime, loyal, friend. There is no person on earth that I hold in higher regard than Cat, for her cycling prowess, her friendship, and all she does when not on the bike.

I have not actually said yes at this point but the writing was on the wall. If Cat is in, I am in. Done deal.

We do not have a fourth rider yet. The third rider is Jeanine Spence. I haven't met Jeanine at this point, but I followed her with Team Raw Milk Cats on RAAM 2011, and knew she was a solid rider. A few names were thrown in the hat for the fourth rider, with one of them being Janet Martinez. I met Janet in the Fall of 2011 and immediately liked her. At registration for a "Low Key Hill Climb" event, she asked me if I wanted to be part of the "Sisters and Misters of No Mercy" team. I figured she perhaps confused me with my teammate Jesse Miller Smith, who'd won the previous event on Sierra Rd. I politely declined because I wanted to race with my team name, and I didn't want her to be disappointed when she realized that I wouldn't add much to their already stellar roster. I am at this point, really gunning for Janet to join.

Bottom line, I commit, Janet gives the nod as the fourth rider, and Team Rock Ewe is complete.
We arrive at the event on Friday, Oct. 5 and get registered. The new Host Hotel that Event Organizer Chris Kostman has arranged, is fantastic. Much more room, the pre-race meeting is held on premises vs. across town, and it's held before dinner time vs. afterward. Plus, he's shortened the format, so riders can get to bed earlier and get more rest. Thanks Chris!
At dinner before the event, Cat and I were presented with a birthday cake featuring both of our Totems. Our birthdays are in the first week of October.
A Birthday Cake for Muddy Mudskipper and Bumblebee


Skipping ahead, I want to say a few things about our riders. After you follow behind your riders for hours and hours in the van as Crew Chief, you really begin to understand them, strengths and weaknesses, so again, at the risk of being too personal, let me tell you about these fast women. I've assigned nick-names to all of them. Riders are introduced in their riding order for the eight legs. Once through the rotation and once again. Each rider does two legs.

Jeanine Spence: "Aero-Power-Masher"
Jeanine has a powerful, slow, mashing cadence. She is comfortable on the aero bars no matter how much crosswind (many riders gave up on the aero bars in the cross winds, while Jeanine remained steady). She churns a low cadence with much power. Her upper body sits crooked on the bike, right arm straight and left bent, torso cocked. But the pedaling, if slow, is very powerful. From behind, you don't see her head above her back. This low, aero position, combined with her powerful pedaling, makes her very fast on the flats. She is also a decent climber, though not at her best at FC 508 due to some decline in fitness after a recent illness. Jeanine is the first rider in our rotation, and on both of her legs, she leaves us in great position. Jeanine is one of the most fun people to be around that I have ever met. If she's in the house, it's a good time.

Jeanine Spence on the first leg Photo courtesy Chris Kostman
Janet Martinez: "The Silent Assasin"
Janet is a tall, slender, attractive woman. She does not necessarily look like a bike racer... until she is on the bike. She is soft-spoken and you'd never suspect that she would be as fast as she is, with a killer instinct. If I'd never met her, I'd have been shocked watching her ride. But I'd done a few rides with Janet prior to the 508, so I know of her talent. She has great skills for the 508 because she is an "all-rounder." She rides strong on the flats, but she is also a great climber, and she handles her bike with confidence. She rides with impeccable cadence, smooth and fast, 85-90 rpm, with quiet upper body, and she keeps her form and smooth pedaling even when tired. Janet is a rookie at the 508, and quite frankly, I think she was a bit intimidated by the talent surrounding her. She prepared herself well and showed up ready to race. Prior to her legs she was hooked up to her iPod, listening to her favorite music for inspiration. She delivered far above expectation in my opinion.

Janet Martinez on Baker-Kelso climb Photo: Paul McKenzie
 Jennie Phillips: "The Machine"
I've known Jennie for a long time. She has really honed her racing skills. She is sheer perfection on the bike. She is compact, powerful, smooth, and fast. Her average cadence is 95 rpm. Her bike is clean and perfect. Her pedaling stroke is perfect. Spotless white bar tape. Her kit fits her perfectly. She is adorable. With everything so right she looks like she is on a Pro Tour team with a $50 Million budget. She is a great climber, solid on the flats, and she wastes no energy. Any credible cycling coach would look at her riding and say, "There is nothing to be done here."

Jennie broke her pelvis this Spring in a bike crash. In June she was still in a wheelchair. She worked hard at her rehab, and it is truly amazing to see her riding so well at the 508.

Jennie Phillips on Amboy climb
Catharina Berge: "Ego Crusher"
Cat is, plain an simple, a World Class Athlete. I have had the pleasure of racing on the tandem with Cat and doing many other  rides with her. In any age group female competition, anywhere on the globe, I would not bet against her. She is simply one of the strongest Masters Female cyclists on the Planet, maybe the strongest. I can watch Cat ride and tell you how many Watts she is cranking out. You may not believe me, but trust me, it's right. Her cadence is slow to medium. She rocks back and forth and does not possess the same finesse as Jennie. But whatever she is doing, it works. She is the anchor of the team and without a doubt, the strongest rider. The most amazing thing about Cat is her humility. She is super human yet the most important thing to her is goodwill and friendship. I cannot think of anyone I respect more than Cat. And it would be the same even if she didn't ride the bike at all. The Ego Crusher name comes from the fact that she dusted all of the strongest men on the 4X teams, leaving their egos out on the road to wilt in the heat. With that said, they seemed to be good sports about it. Cat had the fastest times of any 4x team rider on the 4th and 8th legs of the event, including the men.
Cat Berge mashing out the power.

Let's get on with the racing in this already overly long-winded report...

Stage 1, Santa Clarita to California City: We leave Jeanine at the start and motor ahead to mile 26 where the crews are allowed to meet their rider.
Jeanine (third from left, Hammer jersey) at the Start with a few friends. Photo courtesy Chris Kostman
Too much congestion at the beginning to allow follow cars so riders are on their own for these first miles. We wait and socialize at the meeting point, and Jeanine comes along in great position. She is the second woman, and she is toward the front of the pack. We are thrilled. In front of her is a very small, muscular little climber, who I quickly coin as "Half Pint." She's maybe 90-100 pounds and built for climbing. She looks like an Ironman Triathlete (if you are reading this, Half Pint, please do forward your name and we'll include it).

Jeanine (far right) leads Craig Robertson (light blue), and "Half Pint" (yellow booties) at the beginning of the race. Photo courtesy Chris Kostman
The next stretch is flat. There is a horrible cross wind. Jeanine keeps her poise and stays in the aero bars. She has Half Pint in her cross hairs and she is coming back. We don't see what happens, but at the stop sign ahead, Half Pint is being tended to. Apparently she went down?? Only minor injuries so she continues. Jeanine is now the lead woman on the relay teams. Then the windmill climb comes. Jeanine starts up the climb and isn't feeling her best. Half Pint passes her, then several other riders, including two other women. I'm not worried. I know she'll kill it on the flats and we are still in good position. We turn right with a downhill and a cross-tail wind. Jeanine is back on her game and proceeds to close down the gap. She rides strong all the way to California City. There are still few teams in front of us, but Jeanine leaves us in great position after her first, difficult, leg.

ed. note: Per comment below from "Ultrawoman," "Half Pint" is Jodi Ruby, 50, an accomplished Ironman and XTerra athlete.

Stage 2 California City to Trona: As we approach California City, Janet is in the back of the van with her Earbuds blazing. We try to talk to her but she is getting her game face on. We assign everyone their jobs for a quick change as Jeanine rolls in. Janet sneaks off for a bathroom break while Jeanine approaches. It looks tight as there is no sign of Janet and Jeanine is close. I roll Janet's bike to the bathroom to save a few seconds. She emerges, I tell her to get on her bike, we roll to the exchange and she is on her way. We leave her alone and don't follow right away as we need to give Jeanine some time to clean up and have a break. Meanwhile, Janet immediately catches a few riders. By the time we get the van rolling down the road Janet has picked off a few teams and is setting a blistering pace.
Janet smiles on her first leg. Photo courtesy Chris Kostman

We stop to give her a feed, and we have a "rookie moment." Janet misses the bottle hand up, and rather than just rolling on until the next try, she decides to flip a U turn and come back. We weren't even watching and Jennie and I are shocked to see her coming back. We scold her and tell her that she is to continue forward on the race course at all times! Don't turn around and come back for a bottle!!! We laugh about this move, and warn Janet that she'll probably have to listen to the story told over and over again. Janet then reaches the hard climb of her leg, which is up to Randsburg. She is passing riders right and left, men, women, anyone in her way. Other riders are struggling with this climb. Janet is not. She flies up the hill. We don't think we'll make the 6:00 "lights required" cutoff before Trona, but Janet's awesome performance puts us there at something like 5:53. It's a brilliant ride.

Stage 3 Trona to Furnace Creek: This 99 mile stage is a monster, the longest stage of the race, and includes the famous Townes Pass. Jennie is assigned to this leg. Jennie takes off at a blistering pace. She's holding close to 25 mph on a false flat uphill. Sitting in the van, it's tough to know the exact grade and wind conditions, but I study her pedaling, and I can't help thinking she is going out too hard. I pull alongside and ask her to ratchet it back a few clicks and be sure to ease into the stage, warm up correctly, and save some for Townes Pass. Sitting in the van for 6 hours waiting to ride wears on you, and once you are on the bike you really want to kill it. It's natural, but not necessarily the best thing to do!

It helps to know the Officials (haha). Graham Pollock and Paul McKenzie "Yucca" it up on Randsburg climb.

I know Jennie won't listen to me, but if I can just get her to think about it a little, she'll make her own decision. Her pedaling is impeccable. Darkness is upon us. This is where driving the van is so crucial as the rider benefits greatly from the car headlights, especially on the downhills. We come to the first downhill and Jennie kills it. I told her prior to her stage to go as fast as she wants on the downhills, I will keep her in headlights and won't fall off. I stay with Jennie, but anything that isn't tied down in the van goes flying. Down in Panamint Valley we go. Then on to Townes Pass. The officials stop us to give some instruction on keeping it safe and not obstructing motorists on the Pass. We know the drill and ask if we can proceed! We're losing time here! Jennie grinds up the Pass picking off many, many riders. By this time we are catching solo riders who have started 3 hours before us. Jennie makes it over the Pass and descends efficiently to Stovepipe Wells. She is tired now, but empties the tank on the long, flat stretch to Furnace Creek. We are near the front of all 4x teams (including men's and mixed) at this point, with only a couple of teams ahead.

Stage 4 Furnace Creek to Shoshone: Cat Berge begins at Furnace Creek. It's windy and ugly, it's night time, but Cat is focused. She knows everyone has the same conditions, and she is simply going to go faster than everyone else. That she does, and we catch teams and solo riders one after the other.

In the lead of the 4x teams is the cleverly named "Nervous Ticks," a 4X men's team in the lead. On Jubilee Pass, Cat catches up, and passes, but, they decide to put up a fight. We hear later that this rider is always the first to the top of each climb on group rides and doesn't care to be passed. Cat goes around the rider and van, and I follow. It's getting late at night, probably close to midnight. It's pitch black with a starry desert sky. Cat is out of the saddle, laboring hard, easily squeezing over 200 Watts out of her 125 lb. body. The Nervous Tick rider chases. Unfortunately, he has the benefit of drafting our van, putting him at an advantage. It's a stalemate for a while. I slow ever so slightly to let Cat have a gap. The I accelerate up to her in an effort to eliminate the chaser's draft advantage. He's still there. I pull up alongside Cat and say, "Cat, you'll need to tighten the screws just a bit to get rid of this "Nervous Tick." She pretends to ignore me, but I know she just leans on it a bit more. A gap is created. We descend Jubilee, then begin Salisbury. The 'Tick does a great descent and closes the gap a bit. But it's futile. Cat just keeps a steady pace. After a few minutes, I look in the mirror and he's gone, just a spec in the distance. Objects may be closer than they appear in the mirror, but not in this case. We roll onto Shoshone, with one rotation complete. We're in the lead of the 4x teams, men, women, mixed.

Stage 5 Shoshone to Baker: Jeanine's card is up. She takes to the pedals for her second leg. By now I am exhausted. Driving at night following the rider is intense and takes a lot of concentration. Especially trying to provide perfect light for the riders on the descents. I take a break and go into a half sleep, while Jennie drives. I periodically check the action by opening one eye. I see Jeanine ahead, on her aero bars, keeping the pace. We arrive in Baker with our lead intact, but with a bit of a Nervous Tick. Those guys are just a few minutes behind.

I'm exhausted, so Jennie takes a stint at the wheel. Jeanine is on the road.
 Stage 6 Baker to Kelso: Janet is up. We didn't tell her what a horrible stage Baker-Kelso is. Rookie hazing I guess. We take off following Janet until 7 AM when we are allowed to leave her (follow vehicle not required after daylight). We start up the climb and I look in the mirror. The Sheriff is pulling us over! Party lights, but this ain't no party. I am pretty sure I haven't done anything wrong. Just as we are pulled over, the clock strikes 7 and we can leave Janet on her own. She has no idea what is happening behind her. The Sheriff walks up to my window and asks, "Is there an event or something going on?" I say, "Yes, this is the Furnace Creek 508." "Do you have a permit?" he asked. "Yes," I respond, "This is a permitted event." He says, "Well, I've been off for a couple of days so may be out of the loop, have a nice day." We've dodged a bullet and all is good. Glad he didn't ask for my license. Probably a half dozen or so warrants out on me!

Janet kills it again on Baker Kelso. She doesn't think so, but I explain to her that the beginning elevation of the stage is much lower than the end (net elevation gain), and the horrible pavement doesn't help the average speed. She catches more solo riders and 2x riders on the climb. Another stellar performance by Janet and we are in good shape.

Cat is trying to retrieve her mail from Belgium at the Kelso Post Office, however it it apparently closed. Photo: Paul McKenzie
 Stage 7 Kelso to Amboy: Jennie is up again and she's ready. This a short stage, with one long climb and an even longer descent. It gives her no trouble and she is flying. She closes the gap on the 2x team we have been chasing. She comes into the time station at Amboy really hot. I'm thinking, "Is she going to be able to stop?" She grabs a fist full of brakes and barely brings her bike to a stop right at the exchange point. We send Cat off and put Jennie's wheel in the van. PhhhhhhhhhhShhhh... What's that sound? Jennie's front tire decided to flat just at the end of her leg. The only mechanical we will have during the entire event!

Stage 8 Amboy to 29 Palms: This is a hard stage. It features the hot and ugly Sheephole climb, followed by a long, flat, windy, 20 mile stretch to the finish. It's super hot and Cat is cranking hard. We know we need to keep her cool and hydrated. You see, Cat had a serious incident in Europe this summer on a Time Trial on Alpe d'Huez. She overheated, collapsed at the finish, and was air lifted to the hospital. Her husband Marc was concerned for her health, and told her he didn't want her to ever race again. Because this event was on her schedule and already planned, she convinced Marc she needed to do it and could not let her teammates down.

I tell the crew, "We need to take good care of Cat. If she gets heat stroke again, we're fucked!" We all want to race more with Cat so we know what to do. "Cat, take it easy, keep your heart rate at 155, take some more water, do you want electrolytes? How about some more water? Some HEED perhaps? How about a Coke? Have another sip! Cat, drink, drink, drink." We are all over it.
Cat hammers in the heat on the Sheephole climb
Once she gets over the Sheephole climb, I relax a bit. Cat takes it to the finish in style. We had an earlier incident with Cat, with Janet telling her the top of Salisbury was closer than it was. Cat wasn't happy. Then we screwed up again, with Cat asking us to tell her when there were 15, 10 and 5 miles to go. Well, we tell her there are 10 miles when there are really 14 and we agonize about how to tell her, or whether to tell her at all. We finally decide honesty is the best policy, and I explain to her, kinda sorta blaming the route sheet for our shortcomings as a crew. By this time it's in the bag, and Cat isn't that concerned. I'm calculating our ETA in the latter part of the race and determine we are well under 29 hours, far exceeding the riders' expectations (but not mine), I knew they could do it!
In the end we were the first 4x Team to arrive at the finish, beating the winning Nervous Ticks 4x men's team by almost 40 minutes with our time of 28 Hours 23 Minutes.
Tired and Happy. Team Rock Ewe at the finish podium. (l to r) Jennie, Janet, Cat, Jeanine. Photo courtesy Chris Kostman
 We talk to the Nervous Ticks at the finish and they congratulate the women on a fine race. We see them at the Mexican restaurant and joke that at least they beat us to dinner as they had arrived first.
After dinner we hang around the finish to cheer other riders in. In the morning we attend the outdoor catered breakfast that Chris Kostman arranged. Good thing we come early, as there apparently is some glitch with the caterers, and they run out of food. Our van is already packed, so we get on the road, hit Starbucks in Yucca Valley, and then begin texting friends and loved ones about the great weekend.

Earlier, I put the words "Crew Chief" in quotes. Really, I wasn't much more than a driver, spectator, and cheerleader. Jennie had all the logistics sorted out, and Jeanine had the van and rack all ready to go. So I just needed to show up and keep things moving. This worked out great for me, as I really could not afford the time to handle all the logistics. Team Rock Ewe did everything right and really earned their place in the record books. This was an epic weekend, and I look forward to going back again next year to the 508, hopefully as a rider.

A couple of video links that may be of interest:

My solo 2007 508 "Muddy Mudskipper"

A series of interviews I did while crewing for Bill Ellis in the 2008 FC 508

Pig in Shit.





Sunday, July 29, 2012

Ride Around the San Francisco Bay Double Century

Vajda churns a massive gear on the little single speed Cannondale Hooligan

Although I've hatched many a plan for extreme adventure rides, this one wasn't my idea. It was the brain child of my new friend, Vajda. I met Vajda at Peets Coffee shop on my morning ride, and quickly discovered we had something in common beyond just being cyclists... Adventure riding. Vajda told me he'd ridden by bicycle around the entire San Francisco Bay before, and was planning another attempt. I was immediately intrigued. He planned a July 4th event which I couldn't make, and this one took the "flat route", staying in towns and avoiding climbs where possible. Then, he decided to plan the "Vista Route," which travels some of the Bay's wonderful side roads, but adds a ton of climbing. The route is about 200 miles with 12,000' of climbing. The date is set for July 28th, 2012, and I check my calendar — I'm "all in."

...I wake up at 3:30 A.M. on the 28th of July, to prepare for the ride. After coffee and breakfast, I "kit up," grab my supplies and ride across town to Oakland to meet the ambitious group. Along on the ride are Vajda, Omar, who works at Volagi Bicycles, Adam, part owner of  The Spoke in Oakland, and Katherine, a speedy little climber from Oakland who probably could be National Champion in age group Master's Racing if she had any interest.

The day starts off with a small glitch. Adam stayed over at Vajda's to make the early start more manageable, but forgot his bike shorts, so we alter the route slightly so we can drop by Adam's home to get him kitted up correctly. We roll from Oakland at 5 AM, and by the time we are ready to head for the hills with Adam ready to roll, we've lost a few ticks and it's 5:30.

 The group heads for the Oakland hills in the pre-dawn

Vajda is riding a small wheeled single speed bike with a 70 inch gear, or equivalent to something like a 53 x 20 gear on a 700c bike. If there is any doubt about Vajda's prowess on that little bike, it quickly disappears as he drops the group on the first steep climb we call Butters. I was astounded.

The group makes quick work of Butters, down Redwood Road, up and over the climb, down to Castro Valley, and up and over Palomares Canyon road into Sunol where we have our first brief stop. Turns out the Calaveras Time trial is today, so tons of riders warming up for their time trial.

Pacelining along Hwy 84 heading into Sunol


(l to r) Vajda, Omar, Adam, Katherine, at Sunol Café
Vajda gets jiggy in Sunol While I play the straight man (Photo: Omar)

We leave Sunol and head for Calaveras Road, one of the most beautiful routes in the Bay Area. This twisty gem of a road winds us along the Calaveras reservoir, in and out of creek canyons, and drops us into the South bay at San Jose.

 Katherine gets her climb on chasing me down on Calaveras Road.

Omar climbs on the extraordinarily beautiful, Calaveras Rd.

 Next we drop from the quiet Calaveras road into San Jose and work our way across the Southern end of the Bay. On the descent, Vadja dodges a car at 45 mph crossing an intersection, but all is good. Also good is that our crossing of this section is largely through an industrial park, housing some of Silicon Valley's largest companies, such as Cisco, and Samsung. They're closed on Saturday and it's still early, and it's quiet, so this section goes smooth. We enjoy our second stop at a Starbuck's. We suspect we are in Santa Clara at this point. It's just after 9 and we've got 70 miles out of the way.

A nice stop in Santa Clara, fueling up, checking messages, checking Google Maps. We think the guy on the computer is writing an article about us for Velo Magazine, but we might be wrong.



 Now we've got more urban riding to do, making our way from Santa Clara to Woodside. We're going a little Outlaw here, running lights and stop signs when we can. We just can't afford to sit idle with all the distance and elevation at hand, and frankly, if we do have down time, we'd rather spend it at a nice CafĂ©!
We find a local rider (red/white jersey) who helps us find the quickest route to Woodside.

Enjoying a little down time at the wonderful Robert's Market in Woodside.
After Woodside, we travel the ever popular Cañada Road corridor, with many cyclists trying to show us their stuff, on $10,000 machines with deep carbon rims. We gladly let them tow us along, comfortably sitting on their wheels, until they're completely winded, and once their pace drops, we float by, smile, and say, simply, "Thanks for the tow!"

The route gets a little tricky here with road closures, and no easy way through this section as we get closer to South San Francisco. We are forced to get on Hwy 280 for one exit, to connect to a bike path, then back to Skyline for the approach into San Francisco.

Always feels weird to get on a freeway on ramp on your bike. This is Hwy 280
After one exit we are reminded to get off the freeway. No problem... let's get the hell out of here!


We find our way along Skyline again, heading into South San Francisco. Vajda falls off the pace a bit here, legs saying enough of this big gear. Not wanting to hold up the group, he ejects and heads down the hill to catch BART, and prepare for the after party. While Vajda is arguably the strongest rider in the group, the little bike and big gear are just too much today on this arduous route.

Once we approach San Francisco, we've got some route finding to do. I'm trying to navigate with my Garmin, while others are going from memory and pulling out iPhones and Google maps. All this while trying to negotiate mid-day traffic in the big city! However, once we get into San Francisco proper, Adam becomes a whole new person. He's worked these streets as a bike messenger and it shows. He knows the streets and the pace kicks up. First thing he does, is a little Skitchin', grabbing the bed of a pickup truck, perfectly timed, and drops us all on a climb. Legend has it that he beat Chris Phipps, one of the best racers and climbers in NorCal in an inner City race. They were neck and neck on the last leg. Adam knew he would be totally outclassed by Phipps on the last segment, so he skitch'd up a hill leaving Phipps and the others in the dust, and winning the big prize... the very bike he is riding today!

If you look close you can see Adam hanging on to the pickup truck, Skitchin' while we're dropped!

 As we approach Golden Gate Park Katherine announces she's had enough for the day and heads for BART, while Omar, Adam, and I head to Velo Rouge CafĂ© to meet Amory, who plans to do the last leg with us.
Adam and Omar rolling through Golden Gate Park

 We arrive at Velo Rouge CafĂ© and Amory is there waiting for us. We figure we are good on time so decide to take a nice "sit down" stop.

Velo Rouge Café, San Francisco, Arguello at McAllister, Amory in the yellow helmet, "eating safe."

My sandwich and Salad, the Fausto Coppi. Omar enjoys soup.
 After Velo Rouge, I start crackin' the whip. "OK boys, it's after 3 and we've got a long way to go."
We head out through the Presidio and onto the the Golden Gate bridge. Man, what a shit show. Seems every single bike is rented out from Blazing Saddles and no-one knows how to ride a straight line. Crazy dangerous trying to make time on the bridge, but we make it through, somehow, in one piece.

Making our way through the Presidio. Amory's fresh legs and smile are welcome to the weary group.
Approaching the Golden Gate Bridge
The madness on the bridge is about to begin, I was nearly crashed out several times by inattentive tourists.

 We get over the bridge and it's a smooth ride through Sausalito, Corte Madera, and up and over Wolfe Grade to San Rafael. Then on to Novato to prepare for the dreaded Hwy 37. We have another stop at Peets in Novato just before the Hwy 37 journey. We try a back way to access Hwy 37 just to save a bit on the busy road.

A little cyclocross to access Hwy 37 brought us across a few obstacles.
Here we go! Entering the dreaded Hwy 37.
Comical. Normally the concern is getting buzzed by cars at 70 mph, but here we are buzzing them in our paceline. They're stopped and we are doing 25 mph. Race day at Sears Point!

 Things turn sour here. There is a horrible obstacle in the road. I can't even describe it. It's like a dismantled truck scale or something. But they didn't clean up the surface. There are huge pot holes and steel bars sticking up. Omar goes through first, he has no time to warn. He veers right and misses it. I'm next. It's basically... do the biggest bunny hop of my life... or eat shit. I figure I can at least get my front wheel over, and maybe case the rear and flat or ruin the wheel but I'll be OK. I leap, I clear it, I'm good. Amory is next with Adam on his right shoulder. Amory is lined up with the biggest pot holes you've ever seen. He veers right, takes Adam's front wheel out and they are both down in a horrible crash. I see Adam's head hit the pavement out of the corner of my eye just as I land my jump. I'm terrified. I flip it and head back to the scene. Adam is already sitting up, he's lucid, talking clearly. Wow man, what a relief. Really. I can't tell you how relieved I was.

Broken handlebars keep Adam from continuing, but he's otherwise OK if a little banged up. Amory is OK, slightly bent wheel and some bad scrapes. They're not going to continue. A super nice dude in a VW bus comes along and volunteers to help. He does, and Omar and I continue, knowing our boys are OK.

Wicked cross wind here and Omar shelters me for much of this before finally succumbing and saying, "We've got to switch places!" We do, and after what seems like an eternity, we make it to Vallejo. I feel it's in the bag now if we don't do anything stupid.

Omar and I working the crosswinds and rumble bumps on Hwy 37

Omar (l) and Paul (r) on Hwy 37 at about mile 170. Still smiling... sort of. (Photo: Omar)


 We then make it to Mare Island, a deserted Navy Base in Vallejo. There are some run down, bombed out buildings, but some nice restored areas as well.

Nice old draw bridge on Mare Island
 We need one more stop before we can finish this puppy off. We stop at a convenience store and there is an armed guard. He asks if we know where we are, and I say yes, I think we are in Vallejo. He says, you'd better not leave these bikes here for long. I say I am going to stay with the bikes while Omar goes inside. He looks me up and down, shakes his head like, "You ain't gonna stop what's gonna happen here, white boy!" So we grab our supplies and get the hell out of there.

Convenience Store in Vallejo. Stop at your own risk.
 Now onto the Carquinez bridge and the new bike path for the final leg. We cross the bridge and it's gorgeous in the evening light.

Omar crossing the Carquinez Bridge in evening light.

 After the bridge we have a minor route finding glitch, but get it sorted out and it looks like we have a few ticks before dark. Vajda originally wanted to finish with the optional Arlington climb. I told him that I didn't think it was practical and nobody would want to add that rather brutal option late in the ride. But my legs are good, Omar is good, so we decide to knock it out for Vajda, and besides, why not take in some great evening views of the entire bay we just rode around?

Omar climbing The Arlington. Sun is low, shadows are long, spirits are high.
Paul does the last dance on the Arlington, still cranking out 280W. I've never felt this good at the end of a Double. (Photo: Omar)

The sun sets on the Bay in an epic day. Omar is happy to be done.


Omar and I roll down the Arlington and finish off the ride. I head home, but meet up with the group at Vajda's for a feast of Zachary's Pizza, Chicken Pot Pie, and fruit pies along with some beer and plenty of talk about future adventures. Adam and Amory are fine, and we're all good for the next adventure. We've got some ideas... stay tuned.

Here is the Strava file showing about 200 miles and 12,000'. My Garmin was left off for one leg so I am missing some mileage and climbing:


A few parting notes:

This was truly an epic adventure. Undoubtedly the most "interesting" Double Century I have ever done, and there have been about 50 of them. The challenges of this route are many. The distance and climbing are a given. But throw in lack of support, city traffic, stop lights, down time, route finding, roads that were not meant for cycling, etc. etc., and you have a truly epic day where all cycling skills come into play. This was a great group. Strong, competent, cooperative, no egos, and good energy. It was too bad that not all finished, but it was still a great day for everyone. Photos were all from an iPhone and most were taken on the bike on the fly, so the quality is what it is. Photos by Paul McKenzie unless otherwise noted. Enjoy

Friday, September 24, 2010

Paul's Sierra Bicycle Tour 2010

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The inspiration for my Sierra Bicycle Tour was two-fold. First, lacking any significant vacation this summer from working too much, I wanted to fit in a bike tour. Second, it would be good preparation for the Everest Challenge Bike race, a favorite of mine. My friend Bill Dunn was NOT putting on his September Supper tour so it seemed up to me to have a go. I invited friends, but was willing to go at it alone with no support if necessary. In the end, my teammates Conrad and Andy joined me. Both Cat 2 racers and 20 years my junior, they'd certainly present any needed challenges! Also along were Janet, Sarah, and Bill. Their function was to drive the van and find good riding along the way. We were essentially unsupported along the way, just meeting them at the end of the day. I'll keep the day descriptions reasonably short, but you can also visit the Flickr Photo Set, in which all photos are captioned.

The Tour Route is as follows:

Day 1: Sattley to Foresthill via Downieville, Colfax, Iowa Hill. 124 miles, 11,200'
Day 2: Foresthill to Kyburz via Mosquito Ridge, Ralston Ridge, Ice House. 92 miles, 12,000'
Day 3: Kyburz to Murphys via Silver Fork, North South, Sheep Ranch. 108 miles 12,000'
Day 4: Murphys to Walker via Columbia, Big Hill, Sonora Pass. 110 miles, 11,800'
Day 5: Walker to Truckee via Monitor Pass, Luther Pass, West Shore. 110 miles, 8700'

Day 1

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It's a bit too long to ride from Truckee, so LT shuttled us out to Sattley, making the ride 'just' 124 miles instead of about 165 miles! It was a cool, beautiful morning as we departed. We made quick work of Yuba Pass, and the climb was a good warm up. We rode at sub tempo and made the 7 mile 1700' climb in around 40 minutes. Then it was a long downhill to Bassetts and Downieville, taking in views of the Sierra Buttes along the way. We arrived in Downieville at mile 32 in just an hour and a half. Ahead of schedule, Conrad suggested a coffee stop.

Continuing on the North San Juan we rode along the Yuba River with beautiful views in the morning light. Then we left the river and made a couple of good climbs arriving in North San Juan, mile 61, in under 3 hours. I knew the pace would slow later once we hit the severe climbs after Colfax.

We made our way through Nevada City and Grass Valley on a route I had scouted earlier, then took Lower Colfax Rd. and Hwy 174 to Colfax, where we stopped for food and drink.

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Leaving Colfax it was on to a fast descent to down to the North Fork of the American River before making the severe climb up to Iowa Hill. The pace took it's toll and Conrad and Andy dropped me here. On to Foresthill we enjoyed the last 8 miles of slight downhill at 30 mph. We arrived in Foresthill with plenty of time to shower and head to the Wortin's Market Deli for burger and burritos, while enjoying the outdoor views of the terrain we'd attack on Day 2.

Day 2

Day two, Foresthill to Kyburz, is certainly the most remote route of the trip. There are no services along the route except for Uncle Tom's Cabin, a small bar .3 mile off the route on a dirt road.

We mounted up around 8;30 AM and headed into Foresthill to hit the coffee shop and check email.

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A bit of a slow start but then we descended Mosquito Ridge Rd. to the North Fork of the Middle Fork of the American River. Then we climbed the famed Corkscrew Grade, caught Janet on her ride, and fought with the knats on the climb. Always tough to ride a 15%+ grade seated while swatting knats with one hand!

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Once we gained the top we rolled along Ralston Ridge to Ramsey's Crossing where we got water from the creek and sterilized with Conrad's SteriPen. Then we rode Eleven Pines road all the way to Uncle Toms Cabin at around mile 52, and we already had over 6,000' of climbing by this point. We stopped at the bar and Conrad tagged the ceiling with a dollar bill and our team name.

When we left, I noticed a bump in my rear tire. Not wanting to look at it and realize the bad news I continued to climb, when POW!, the tire exploded like a gunshot. We booted the tire and continued to roll. With 40 miles to go and the condition of the blistered tire, I knew my chances of making it were slim. But I nursed that thing all the way to Kyburz by leaning forward and standing most of the way. On the descent to Kyburz, I used only the front brake, stopping frequently to cool the rim. I had sent Andy and Conrad on a little detour to Wright's Lake so they'd be behind me and not have to suffer with my slow pace. Somehow, I made it all the way to Kyburz, though the 6 mile descent on Hwy 50 was stressful with the bad tire!

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The van and crew showed up later and we showered, jumped in the van and headed down Hwy 50 about 7 miles to Dante's Italian restaurant for a nice dinner.

Day 3

We rolled out of the Sierra Inn Motel at around 8:30 and were a bit surprised by the beginning of Silver Fork Rd., as it hit us hard from the gun with a very steep extended climb.

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By now the legs were complaining about the hard days. We'd climb 3300' in the first 16 miles to Mormon Emmigrant Rd, where we enjoyed another 16 miles, this time flat or downhill. The first 16 miles took an hour and a half, the second 16 miles took a half hour!

We then navigated the remote North South Road with many ups and downs, but all manageable. We stopped for water at a camp ground but it was closed for the season. Out came the SteriPen again.

After North South we emerged on Omo Ranch road briefly, then took Hwy 88 for a few miles to Shake Ridge road, where we enjoyed another speedy flat/down section, with Andy and Conrad drilling it at 38 mph, and me sitting on the back. We descended Rams Horn Grade, one of my favorite little descents to the town of Volcano where we enjoyed a nice stop before things got really difficult again.

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We headed to Railroad Flat Rd., on the way crossing the Mokelumne River. After Railroad Flat, we got onto Sheep Ranch Rd. for some more epic steep climbing. Conrad and Andy had dropped me by this time so I struggled along alone. A couple of steep, bumpy descents reminded this rider that the body was beat!

I rolled into Murphys to find Conrad and Andy enjoying beer and a "snack" in the form of a Pizza. I joined for a beer and a slice before we headed over to our friend Barranca's place. She'd put us up for the night and make dinner for us. Awesome.

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The dinner and outdoor dining at Barranca's was swell, couldn't have been a better end to the day.

Day 4



We'd been watching the weather for days as there was a storm brewing, and this was our day to navigate Sonora Pass. A storm at nearly 10,000' would not have been a good thing. As we started our day, it wasn't clear weather we'd see rain or not as the storm was predicted to possibly just miss us to the north.

We headed toward Columbia and arrived quickly before tackling Big Hill Road, a small cutoff that took us toward Twain Harte, avoiding busy Hwy 108. We finally emerged on 108 and Andy set a pace that was too high for me. Conrad elected to sit back and tow me along. He'd have to back off on the steeper grades to keep me on. He said I'd drop off when he hit about 180-200 watts, demonstrating the tiredness I was feeling. I struggled to get my heart rate over about 130 bpm!

We stopped at Strawberry and found Andy there. We enjoyed a snack and then carried on toward Sonora Pass. Weather was holding and fingers were crossed. Sarah was in the van at Dardinelle, while Bill and Janet were riding Sonora Pass. I told her if the weather turns sour, please come pluck us off the mountain. So we did have a backup plan.

While Andy and Conrad rolled ahead, I chipped away at Sonora Pass taking a full hour and twenty minutes for the 9 miles at my snail pace. Even on the 26% grade section, my max HR was 143, so there really wasn't much power going down! Amazingly, I got over the pass in good weather, and didn't even feel the need to put on my rain jacket for the descent.

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The East side of Sonora Pass was beautiful in the broken, storm edge light, and was a spectacular end to the day. Out on Hwy 395 we had a 14 mile stretch into Walker with a 1-2% downgrade. I soft pedaled the section, managing to average 28 mph into Walker with little effort. I was counting my lucky stars on this day. Ahead of me, Conrad and Andy hammered the section at full effort and managed to average 40 mph into Walker, with their 53 x 11 gears spun out!

Nice dinner and beer in Walker at a local restaurant. Surprisingly, they closed at 7 PM, so it's good we arrived when we did!

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Day 5

We had our usual breakfast in the hotel room, granola, fruit, yoghurt, etc., and made up some PBJ sandwiches with some slices of Janet's most excellent zucchini bread. This became our routine, decide who had the biggest room and that would be the breakfast room. Sarah rolled out early on solo adventure up Monitor Pass while Bill elected to rest, driving Janet over Monitor so she could do Ebbetts Pass. We referred to Bill, Janet, and Sarah as the "laughing group" as they elected to just do some fun riding each day vs. the big numbers that Andy, Conrad and I were doing.

It was a beautiful morning leaving Walker and the ride up 395 was smooth. We took a left on Monitor Pass and the three of us rode up the climb together at an easy pace, chatting the whole way. Andy and Conrad are both great conversationalists, and we covered many different topics in depth while riding. The roads we traveled lent themselves well to extended side by side riding with little traffic.

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We passed Sarah near the top of Monitor Pass and continued toward Markleeville, after Conrad nailed maybe the fastest descent of the West side of Monitor I'd ever seen.

No supplies needed in Markleeville so we rolled through to Woodfords. At this point I think both Andy and Conrad could smell the barn and began to set a pace up the Canyon that I could not match. This would be the last I'd see of them. Conrad was taking a detour to Reno to pick up his car, while Andy headed toward Truckee. I enjoyed the ride past Emerald Bay and up the West Shore of Lake Tahoe.

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As I rolled into Truckee, I was nearly run over by a very stupid or angry driver with a trailer who cut me off on the roundabout. I had to bunny hop the curb to avoid getting pinched off by the trailer he was towing.

After that I thought a cup of coffee might be nice before the final 1,000' climb up Northwoods to home. As I sat at Wild Cherries Coffee house, I got a text from Andy to the effect of, "I made it." I let him know I was close...

In the end, the tour was probably harder than even I expected. We averaged 110 miles and 11,000' per day with most days being similar in overall difficulty. It's a great tour but only for very fit cyclists who don't mind a little suffering. We'll see about next year. For now I'd like to do perhaps an easier version come next June when the passes open. Any interest?

P.S. Please check back for lots of comments and input from Conrad, Andy and the Laughing Group. Additional photos, maps, workout data, etc. will also be uploaded.